A heavy landing can often result in one or both of those plastic wing bolts breaking, as they should. But more often than not they break flush with the fixing point.

To remove the broken bolt, heat a flat bladed screw driver, one that's just smaller than the diameter of the bolt, about blue heat (enough to melt the plastic) push the screw driver into the broken part of the bolt and leave it to cool, normally about 30 seconds. Then just unscrew the broken part of the bolt.
Courtesy Martin Chitty

One of the most useful tools I carry in my flight box is a pair of surgical forceps, or arterial clamps. These are absolutely indispensable for taking the fuel tubing off the engine carb for draining the tank at the end of the day, particularly when the engine is partially cowled.

When fitting tailfins it is sometimes a pain to keep them vertical.

Try using a large rubber band (5 or 6") split into two equal portions and then re-connect them using twine. You will find by stretching the whole thing around tailfin & tailplane that slight tension is placed on the tailsection which will enable the fin to be held vertically until the adhesive cures.
Courtesy Martin Taylor

I usually use a pair of scissors. First mark around the canopy with a water soluble marker pen. You can usually see a moulding line to guide you. Don't cut right up to the line, but work up to it a bit at a time. This avoids irreparable mistakes! And use different sizes of scissors if it helps.

As for fixing - I have had for years, a bottle of R/C Modellers Glue. Yes that’s the name of it! When wet its white colour similar to PVA, but it dries clear. Put the glue around the inside edge of the canopy - very sparingly, then hold in place with an elastic band or similar. It takes a good 12 -24 hours to set, but does it set - My Acrowot canopy has been in place for years and not come off.

Be carefully not to get any of the glue on any other part of the canopy because it will mark it and it doesn't wipe off, it just smears and looks even worse!
Peter Dennis - Flying Sites Editor

EPP
stands for expanded polypropylene. EPP foam is a semi-rigid foam that is highly flexible, and very resilient. Besides being used for gliders, it is also used for packaging, car parts, and car manufacturing processes, just to name a few.
Peter Dennis - Flying Sites Editor

One method I've used successfully is to mask the edge of each line or panel then build up a layer of light weight filler of even a build up of grey cellulose primer paint. Then, when dry carefully rub back with a light grade of 'wet & dry' paper (used wet if using paint primer) until the edge of the masking tape is revealed.

After this, just carefully peel back the masking tape to give a finely detailed panel, that blends into the rest of the aircraft. It take some time planning which panel goes where, but the results are worthwhile.
Peter Dennis - Flying Sites Editor

When mixxing epoxy the residue on the prop blade can be simply scraped off
with a Stanley knife and the prop blade reused for further epoxy mixing.
Peter Smith
Brisbane.

"Once you pop you can't stop" the advert says but what do you do with the
empty Pringles tubes?. If you cut 3 or 4 or so empty tubes to different heights and tape them together you end up with a bench tidy to keep your offcuts or knives or brushes in, or whatever you can think of.

Also The lids are great to mix epoxy on. When it sets just peel the hard residue off and use it again.
Andy Happs

Hi, I'm just learning to fly r/c aircraft after flying free flight since being a child so this tip is for people new to r/c flight.

I had put together my first trainer (Hobbico Superstar) and being used to flying gentle free flight models didn't use enough epoxy on the wing joint, result of this was that the wings parted on the third flight and me experiencing my first trip to collect the remains armed with a black bin bag!!! Not wanting to give up I went out and brought another trainer (the excellent Boomerang), this time using old 35mm film cannisters to mix the 30min epoxy in and pouring it into the cutout for the wing brace, after first coating only half the the wing brace with epoxy.

Then inserting it into the cutout by pushing and pulling so that halve of the brace is totally covered and glue is squelching out(there is no need to rush this as the epoxy takes a while to set ).Remove any excess with a thin plastic scrapper and wipe the area with meths, leave the glue to dry. When it has set repeat the proccess with the other side, this time mix a bit more than last time so you can give each root rib a good coating as well, bring both wing panels together so the epoxy is being pushed out from between the root ribs. Clean up the excess as desribed before and bind together with sticky tape. When the epoxy has set remove the tape and you will have a nice strong smooth joint. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Tim Coppin
(bulk epoxy buyer).

Much ado is made about printing on vinyl or on to the backing papers of certain types of covering, as I am employed in the sign industry I can cut my own decals but I also have this suggestion which works excellently for basic letters and numbers etc and with a little thought complex decals, Print the image mirrored (all PC artwork packages allow this) and then with a pritt stick apply the paper page to the backing paper of your covering then cut out with scissors or scalpel.

Also your local sign shop is a good place for materials, ask them to keep the cuttings of vinyl for you (the ones that end up in the bin) although sometimes it maybe heavier and slightly thicker this is negligble.
Happy Landings
Terry Jones @ Ballymoney Model Flying Club

Occasionally a mishap will occur and a model disappear into the sunset. Even more occasionally, it will reappear when someone finds it in a back garden, often after some time. It is often possible to salvage the electronics etc, but they could have been exposed to wetness. The trick is to dry them out completely. To do this, go to Woolworth's and buy a packet of dehumidifier crystals for £1.49.

Get an airtight box, and some sort of mesh. Support the mesh so that dissolved crystals and water can drip through, place the components and crystals on top and seal the box. Leave it a couple of days and you can safely re-use the Rx, servo etc In my case it was a Zagi that disappeared for ten days, the Rx was dried by keeping it in a warm place as I searched high and low for Silica Gel. It works okay, but I would have felt safer using Chemistry rather than luck!
Terry Sullivan

Save old egg boxes as mixing epoxy in the individual sections makes an excellent mixing container. For the super fast setting epoxy, pour in the correct amounts, and use a cigarette lighter to heat the bottom of the egg cup (try not to set the cardboard on fire of course) then mix the epoxy, its very runny after being heated and mixes very easily and set in half the time it says on the bottle.
Alan Gardner.