Broken Wing Bolts
heavy landing can often result in one or both of those plastic wing
bolts breaking, as they should. But more often than not they break
flush with the fixing point.
remove the broken bolt, heat a flat bladed screw driver, one that's
just smaller than the diameter of the bolt, about blue heat (enough
to melt the plastic) push the screw driver into the broken part
of the bolt and leave it to cool, normally about 30 seconds. Then
just unscrew the broken part of the bolt.
Courtesy Martin Chitty
Tools - Surgical Forceps!
of the most useful tools I carry in my flight box is a pair of surgical
forceps, or arterial clamps. These are absolutely indispensable
for taking the fuel tubing off the engine carb for draining the
tank at the end of the day, particularly when the engine is partially
the best trick is to use them for putting a short length of fuel tubing
onto a clevis to keep it from opening, without having to unscrew the
clevis from the pushrod. Slide the tube over the end of the forceps,
then pull them open. This stretches the tube open so that it can be
placed over the clevis, down onto the shank which is threaded onto
the pushrod. Reattach the clevis to the horn, and then it is a simple
matter to slide the tube into position holding the clevis closed.
Courtesy Jonathan Mead
fitting tailfins it is sometimes a pain to keep them vertical.
using a large rubber band (5 or 6") split into two equal portions
and then re-connect them using twine. You will find by stretching
the whole thing around tailfin & tailplane that slight tension is
placed on the tailsection which will enable the fin to be held vertically
until the adhesive cures.
Courtesy Martin Taylor
best way to cut out a canopy is VERY carefully!
usually use a pair of scissors. First mark around the canopy with
a water soluble marker pen. You can usually see a moulding line
to guide you. Don't cut right up to the line, but work up to it
a bit at a time. This avoids irreparable mistakes! And use different
sizes of scissors if it helps.
for fixing - I have had for years, a bottle of R/C Modellers Glue.
Yes thats the name of it! When wet its white colour similar
to PVA, but it dries clear. Put the glue around the inside edge
of the canopy - very sparingly, then hold in place with an elastic
band or similar. It takes a good 12 -24 hours to set, but does it
set - My Acrowot canopy has been in place for years and not come
carefully not to get any of the glue on any other part of the canopy
because it will mark it and it doesn't wipe off, it just smears
and looks even worse!
Peter Dennis - Flying Sites Editor
stands for expanded polypropylene. EPP foam is a semi-rigid foam
that is highly flexible, and very resilient. Besides being used
for gliders, it is also used for packaging, car parts, and car manufacturing
processes, just to name a few.
Peter Dennis - Flying Sites Editor
method I've used successfully is to mask the edge of each line or
panel then build up a layer of light weight filler of even a build
up of grey cellulose primer paint. Then, when dry carefully rub
back with a light grade of 'wet & dry' paper (used wet if using
paint primer) until the edge of the masking tape is revealed.
this, just carefully peel back the masking tape to give a finely
detailed panel, that blends into the rest of the aircraft. It take
some time planning which panel goes where, but the results are worthwhile.
Dennis - Flying Sites Editor
Use For Profilm Backing Paper
use Profilm to cover my models. But don't throw the backing paper
away! I use the backing paper to protect my building board then things
dont stick to it.
Throw Away Broken Props
have probably heard of this one already but will pass it on.
Broken props make excellent epoxy stirrers and also for paint.
mixxing epoxy the residue on the prop blade can be simply scraped
with a Stanley knife and the prop blade reused for further epoxy
building a structure that requires pining to the plan, (such as a
flat bottom wing) use cling film to protect the plan. Simply use drawing
pins to stretch and pin down the cling film smooth over the plan.
When finished the film can be thrown away. Glues will not stick to
A roll of kitchen cling film is cheap and will last for many models.
Engine Mount On The Cheap
a really cheap and effective way to quieten your engine try this:
Get yourself a metre of that brownish flat rubber strapping that is
used in upholstery. It is attached and stretched in an interlaced
pattern across the seat area of a chair to support the seat cushion.
It is about 2 inches wide and one eight of an inch thick and is sold
in D.I.Y. places by the meter.
All you need do is cut 2 strips to fit under the engine lugs. Punch
2 holes for the engine bolts. Use a proper multi sized hole punch.
The type used to punch holes in leather belts with the rotary punches
that click into position is good.
Cut these strips larger than the engine lugs so that, when tightened
down, the engine no longer contacts the engine bearers. Ideally, the
rubber rectangles should fold down between the bearers and the bottom
curved part of the crankcase. So wooden bearers work best.
If using a specially made aluminium engine mount, use another rectangle
between the mount and 'F1' the firewall or bulkhead too.
Tighten everything down and you will be amazed at the difference.
you pop you can't stop" the advert says but what do you do
empty Pringles tubes?. If you cut 3 or 4 or so empty tubes to different
heights and tape them together you end up with a bench tidy to keep
your offcuts or knives or brushes in, or whatever you can think
The lids are great to mix epoxy on. When it sets just peel the hard
residue off and use it again.
Hi, I'm just learning to fly r/c aircraft after flying free flight
since being a child so this tip is for people new to r/c flight.
I had put together my first trainer (Hobbico Superstar) and being
used to flying gentle free flight models didn't use enough epoxy
on the wing joint, result of this was that the wings parted on the
third flight and me experiencing my first trip to collect the remains
armed with a black bin bag!!! Not wanting to give up I went out
and brought another trainer (the excellent Boomerang), this time
using old 35mm film cannisters to mix the 30min epoxy in and pouring
it into the cutout for the wing brace, after first coating only
half the the wing brace with epoxy.
inserting it into the cutout by pushing and pulling so that halve
of the brace is totally covered and glue is squelching out(there
is no need to rush this as the epoxy takes a while to set ).Remove
any excess with a thin plastic scrapper and wipe the area with meths,
leave the glue to dry. When it has set repeat the proccess with
the other side, this time mix a bit more than last time so you can
give each root rib a good coating as well, bring both wing panels
together so the epoxy is being pushed out from between the root
ribs. Clean up the excess as desribed before and bind together with
sticky tape. When the epoxy has set remove the tape and you will
have a nice strong smooth joint. Thank you for taking the time to
(bulk epoxy buyer).
Much ado is made about printing on vinyl or on to the backing papers
of certain types of covering, as I am employed in the sign industry
I can cut my own decals but I also have this suggestion which works
excellently for basic letters and numbers etc and with a little
thought complex decals, Print the image mirrored (all PC artwork
packages allow this) and then with a pritt stick apply the paper
page to the backing paper of your covering then cut out with scissors
your local sign shop is a good place for materials, ask them to
keep the cuttings of vinyl for you (the ones that end up in the
bin) although sometimes it maybe heavier and slightly thicker this
Terry Jones @ Ballymoney Model Flying Club
Occasionally a mishap will occur and a model disappear into the
sunset. Even more occasionally, it will reappear when someone finds
it in a back garden, often after some time. It is often possible
to salvage the electronics etc, but they could have been exposed
to wetness. The trick is to dry them out completely. To do this,
go to Woolworth's and buy a packet of dehumidifier crystals for
an airtight box, and some sort of mesh. Support the mesh so that
dissolved crystals and water can drip through, place the components
and crystals on top and seal the box. Leave it a couple of days
and you can safely re-use the Rx, servo etc In my case it was a
Zagi that disappeared for ten days, the Rx was dried by keeping
it in a warm place as I searched high and low for Silica Gel. It
works okay, but I would have felt safer using Chemistry rather than
Fast Setting Epoxy
Save old egg boxes as mixing epoxy in the individual sections makes
an excellent mixing container. For the super fast setting epoxy,
pour in the correct amounts, and use a cigarette lighter to heat
the bottom of the egg cup (try not to set the cardboard on fire
of course) then mix the epoxy, its very runny after being heated
and mixes very easily and set in half the time it says on the bottle.
A little tip for you guys regarding using a screwdriver on your models,
especially near thin covering. A small piece of rubber tube that fits
just over the screw head will keep your screwdriver from slipping
off and going through your wing!
Broken Wing Bolts
For removing the remnants of a plastic wing bolt after it has sheared,
heat the tip of a screwdriver and push it in. Wait for the plastic
to re-set, and unscrew the bolt. A small Allen key will do it too!
Fuel Tank Leak Test
The best way to test a tank is to seal it up, then immerse it in hot
water. As it heats up the air inside expands and any leaks will be
seen. It also has the advantage over cold water that you know that
no water has got inside the tank.